[Edit: I've retro-actively added photos, now that I know how!]

Chinese Birthday, I of III.

My first Chinese birthday was lovely, considering the circumstances: short on family but long in small things like new friends, funny gifts and good conversation. My day began regularly enough, but my first present was from the weather gods who govern Chengdu: sunshine! Seeing sun, blue sky and white fluffy clouds is rare enough around here that the days they all make an appearance I very much appreciate it. We also had a short class day today. Everyone is prepping to head off to their sites for “summer project,” the teaching practicum that lasts for the next week. A few of my classmates spent the day on the train to Gansu province, and they will still be on that same train long after I arrive at my hotel across town tomorrow. The rest of my half-day was spent with a few classmates on a park bench in the shade.

One of the very best things about life in China thus far has been the conversation with my fellow PCVs. We always seem to go from zero-to-sixty in about 10 seconds, skipping light chit-chat in favor of serious discussion about our pasts, opinions, dreams or fears. It is making us all feel like we've known each other for longer than three-odd weeks. There seems to be some unspoken agreement about frankness, as I feel that everyone allows themselves to tell the truth without any hedging or opaqueness that is common among new acquaintances or colleagues. Today, with our unusual amount of spare time, I did a lot of talking.

Tonight we had a traditional-style Chinese banquet at a restaurant not far from my apartment. By traditional, I mean that we ordered several dishes and all shared, as each dish gets placed on a lazy-susan in the middle of the table and people browse for what they want. It is a really fun way to do it, though ordering can sometimes be a challenge. We were eleven, in a private room at the restaurant, very well-attended to by an army of waitstaff, tea-pourers and bus-people. It was lucky my Chinese teacher was able to come, as she commandeered the task of ordering for us all. The food was great and we managed to please both the vegetarians and the serious carnivores. My friend Leah even snuck off to buy a birthday cake for me. The cake was lovely and personalized: it said “Mary, Happy Birthday, 70 RMB.” Now, Leah didn't realize it, but when they were asking her what she wanted written on the cake, she also said, “how much is it?” They answered by writing it on the cake...




After dinner we trooped over my favorite area of the city, a long alley filled with outdoor teahouses. It is unusual in China to find a pedestrian-only street, and I still think people would drive through if only there weren't so many tables in the way.



Tomorrow I get to celebrate my birthday again, this time with my host family. I believe we are going out to lunch with a large group of guests, probably their friends and relatives. Yet again, my host parents have been just truly kind. I let them know my birthday was approaching earlier in the week, so that I could clear my plans with my friends (a lot of advance warning is required if I want to skip dinner). When I got home from school, my room was decorated with happy birthday signs and a gift. It was wrapped in a large gift bag, and so when I went to open it, my host father said, "its a Chinese bag!" I was like, yes, it IS a Chinese bag. The he continued to say it is a beautiful Chinese bag, and I again agreed with him. When I got the gift open, it was actually an Asian-style handbag. He was describing the gift, not the wrapping. He was just so excited he couldn't wait for me to open it. Just another silly English-Chinese moment for your amusement...

OK, I may be out of touch for the next week, as I have no idea what kind of connectivity I'll have during my summer project. Enjoy this last week of July, everybody! It is always one of my favorite times of year.

Until next time.