Macau

I visited Macau last weekend, and quite liked it. While famous in these parts for its casino culture - it has modeled itself post-colonialism as a Vegas-of-the-East, baby! - Macau also boasts a charming old city, lovely in its combination of Chinese and Portuguese architecture and style. I tagged along with Casey and Laura, my two Canadian pals who teach English in a local high school, who thought they needed to exit and re-enter HK to activate their new work visas (don't ask me to explain the immigration rules underlying this; I can't. All I know is that the visa process is murky and tangled, and foreigners in Mainland China, particularly, and HK also, must often exit and re-enter the country. Anyway). Their co-worker and friend, Anna, rounded out the foursome.

[En route. I love the trees overhead, in Kowloon Park (still in HK).]

We traveled via ferry, or actually a "high-speed catamaran," for 300 HKD roundtrip. Depending upon the speed of travel, it takes between 60 - 90 minutes to reach Macau from Victoria Harbor. I know this because it took 1.5 hours to reach Macau, and a mere hour to return. The return voyage was not for the weak of stomach, but I enjoyed it - let's just say the waves induced lots of "oohs!" from the passengers in my cabin.


[How often do you see signs in Chinese, English, and Portuguese? Neat.]

Macau was the oldest colony in the world, according to my guidebook, as the Portuguese returned the territory to the Chinese only in 1999 (two years after HK's return, in 1997). If you overlook the new casinos and the super-fakey tourist trap right at the port (where you can tour, among other things, a traditional Chinese village, a replica volcano, and a miniature Roman Coliseum), Macau still looks very Portuguese. Many of the streets are cobblestone or tiled in simple black and white mosaics, echoing Lisbon. Catholic churches dot the city center. Croquettes and cod fish turn up frequently on menus. It was a lovely place to pass a sunny Sunday, quieter and less crowded than the Hong Kong I am used to.

[The facade of Church of Saint Paul, all that remains of a church built in 1602. It burned down and was rebuilt several times, until a fire in 1835 caused the Jesuits to abandon the place.]

[Tourists prudently shading themselves from the sun.]

[Some of you received mail from Macau ...]

[The lovely and charming Casey and I.]

[Foreground: Old Macau. Background: New Macau.]

[The "famous" Macau treat, egg custard tarts, nearly identical to the famous Hong Kong egg custard tarts. Delicious, all the same, and joy-inspiring besides.]

[Lunch = Macau street-food specialty, pork sandwiches.]

[Tiled streets.]

[Streetside Buddhist shrine; the coils above are incense.]

[Maybe it is just me, but this does not inspire confidence.]

[The Macau Art Museum - it took a lot of searching to find the place, but it was well worth the effort.]

[Rickshaws, solely used by tourists nowadays in Macau, but attractive nonetheless.]

[The ferry home.]